It only seats 38 people at tables, and a few more at stools pulled up to the brass bar. But as Le Servan fills up (always, every day), it can feel like the center of the Paris food scene. When sisters Tatiana and Katia Levha opened their bistro last spring in the 11th arrondissement, not far from the Père Lachaise cemetery, neither had ever run a restaurant before. But with its friendly atmosphere and big plates of unpretentious food, Le Servan ushers in the city’s new wave of culinary culture—unfussy and affordable, with an emphasis on high-quality ingredients.
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